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Publicado en10/03/2016 por

It’s funny how the more I surf the more I seem to fall in love with it. It’s been about 4 months since I’ve been here and I’ve FINALLY gotten to surf.

I am not gonna lie, when I woke up the morning of I was nervous. I was nervous because I haven’t been out in over 4 months (last time was in Bali). And I almost died in Bali! Haha I went surfing my last day in Padang Padang. Known for some of the best waves and dangerous reefs. It was (of course) the first time I went out alone. I mean I was with girl friends, but it was the first time without an instructor. And well, that was a fail. Got my first wave, and then got stuck in the tide. Haha

Anyways, good news! I didn’t die. So here I am in Sydney, Australia surfing. Where legends surf. I’m also really excited to share that I will be surfing a lot more. I live about 20minutes, by bus, from the beach and just a 10 minute drive! I’ve paid for renting a suit and board for up to 10 sessions. I promised myself after that I would be purchasing my first board! Ah I can’t wait.

My first lesson with in Sydney was with Let’s Go Surfing in Bondi Beach. Honestly, just a great crew. My surfing coach has been a teach for 20 years. I was extremely proud of myself when he said that I was good enough to come intermediate classes. Guess I am not as bad as I thought I was.

Good form right? Just need to let go of the board.

Finally a year later! It’s gonna be such a good feeling to purchase my very own surf board. My next big test is learning how to buy the right board. Let’s see how that goes!


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